In the last two weeks I have gotten a crash course in mass-production sewing. As I've mentioned already, I have been sewing reusable Caroline Bags for SewGreen. The bags are relatively easy to make and involve all straight stitching. The side seams are sewn up with a French seam so that there are no inside seams that will ravel, and the top edges are double-folded and top-stitched. The only slightly tricky part involves sewing an "X" pattern to fasten the handles securely to the bag.
To promote sustainable sewing in this project, SewGreen requires that all Caroline Bags be made from fabric that was not bought new. Luckily I had a large stash of fabric remnants that I got for free from a request on an email list in which you can give away or request items. I had a large supply of corduroy that I thought would be sturdy and nice looking for a bag, so that's what I made my first Caroline Bag from. It sure did look nice, but I found out very quickly that sewing through several layers of corduroy (for the handles and top seams) was next to impossible--very slow going and hard on the hands.
Lesson learned, I chose a nice, thin cotton for my next bag. It looked so thin that I decided to make it sturdier by layering two fabric pieces together and folding the top edges to the outside of the bag rather than folding them to the inside. What you get is a lined bag with a contrasting trim at the top (see gingham bag below). I was very happy with how these looked, but the SewGreen director thought they were TOO nice. Since we need to make 1200 bags by the end of March--at last count we were a little over a third of the way to that goal--the strategy is to sew as quickly as possible and whip out as many as we can.
To do so, SewGreen organized a Community Sew-In to make the Caroline Bags last weekend. As I mentioned, my daughter and I helped out at the Sew-In. We cut, we sewed, we ironed, we even played with fire when we burned the edges of plastic webbing used for handles. I learned several things about how to produce sewn items as quickly as possible.
While it's very satisfying for one person to sit down and make a bag from choosing the fabric through the cutting and sewing, it's not the quick way to do it. Wendy Skinner, the SewGreen coordinator, had attended a Production Sewing class and learned how to set up an assembly line. There was an ironing station to iron the handles, a cutting station with an electric rotary cutter, a group of sewers who stitched the top seams and passed them on to the next group, who sewed on the handles. Then the final group stitched up the side seams.
Breaking down the tasks allowed each person to get really good at completing each step quickly. I learned that in sewing what slows people down the most is having to stop to end a seam and clip threads and to take out pins. To minimize stopping, we tried to avoid using pins and we sewed around three edges of the top folded-down edge rather than sewing two separate seams. An even more efficient way to avoid stopping would be to sew a seam on one bag and then start sewing the next bag without cutting the thread. You would end up with a long "banner" of bags, which would then be clipped apart. Quilters use this method to sew together lots of squares. It's called chain piecing.
I took home several pre-cut kits to make more Caroline Bags at home this past week. I incorporated a few of the assembly-line ideas. To start off, I ironed all of the top seams and handles for the five bags I had while my daughter started sewing. Working with two people made the work go very quickly; we finished five bags in about an hour or so. We sewed up the handles using the no-stopping stitch method, and that sped things up as well. The other good tip we heard from another sewer was a little maxim that her sewing teacher had taught her: "A fast seam is a straight seam." And it's true, the faster that pedal goes without stopping and starting to take out pins, the straighter the seam turns out. I think I strained my sewing machine to its limit, though, because it has developed a little squeak after its mass production. You can see from the photos below that mass production can produce a big mess!

(I've moved my sewing room out of the basement and into our second-floor sitting room. My dear friend Kate helped me set it up, though you can tell I need to get her to come back for another organizational makeover. I'm hoping to get back down to the basement once we get some better lighting installed down there and some finishing work done. These shots make me realize that one of my next posts should be about creativity and organization.)
So, what, you may ask, does mass production have to do with creativity? Doesn't it kill the creative impulse by taking creativity out of the act of creating?
I have to say that it's quite tiring doing the same task over and over, and there were times this week when my enthusiasm for sewing yet another bag waned. It makes me think about William Morris, the Wiener Werkstatte (whose motto was "Better to work 10 days on one product than to manufacture 10 products in one day."), and others involved in the Arts and Crafts movement of the late 1800s and early 1900s. These artists, architects, and designers rebelled against factory-made furniture and textiles and called for a return to individual craftsmanship. They felt that something got lost when machines and assembly-line processes took over the actual act of creating. On a practical level, though, artists and crafters mass produce some items to sell in order to support themselves (or at the very least to make some extra cash to buy more supplies to continue creating). And these craftspeople have sites like Etsy, where artists can market their designs to people all over the world. Etsy and the revival of the handcrafted tradition seems to have sprung up in part as a reaction against the big box stores and from the renewed interest in sustainable living. According to buyhandmade.org, which asked people to pledge to buy only handmade gifts during the holidays:
Buying Handmade makes for better gift-giving.
The giver of a handmade gift has avoided the parking lots and long lines of the big chain stores in favor of something more meaningful. If the giver has purchased the gift, s/he feels the satisfaction of supporting an artist or crafter directly. The recipient of the handmade gift receives something that is one-of-a-kind, and made with care and attention that can be seen and touched. It is the result of skill and craftsmanship that is absent in the world of large-scale manufacturing.
Buying handmade is better for people.
The ascendancy of chain store culture and global manufacturing has left us dressing, furnishing, and decorating alike. We are encouraged to be consumers, not producers, of our own culture. Our ties to the local and human sources of our goods have been lost. Buying handmade helps us reconnect.
Buying handmade is better for the environment.
The accumulating environmental effects of mass production are a major cause of global warming and the poisoning of our air, water and soil. Every item you make or purchase from a small-scale independent artist or crafter strikes a small blow to the forces of mass production.
And certainly there are designers who produce their own creations in assembly-line fashion without losing their creative impulses. I'll mention only a few. Lori Marie, a textile artist who's
been featured on Martha Stewart Living, has a beautiful post about her mass-production sewing sessions. She mass produces these beautifully designed and meticulously sewn treasures. And her tiny studio looks like a joy to work in. Beata, a mother and crafter, has a neat display of her assembly line (shown at right) for her babushka ornaments. Even though both artists are producing more than one of their creations, each reflects meticulous craftsmanship and a unique vision.